![]() That's the only way to truly know what kind of amp to match the speakers with.Ĭlick to expand.Well I imagine it would depend on how long the peaks last. Speaker manufacturers need to list "max continuous power" and "max peak power". Such a rating makes even less sense to me, becuase a minimum power rating should be zero watts. But I couldn't tell you off the top of my head. I've seen some speakers with a minimum wpc rating before. A more powerful amp is less of a threat to speakers than an underpowered one (especially like in my case where it's max continuous power was 3 dB below the speakers' rated max continuous power). I guess that speaker manufacturers figured out that this was a massive problem with the general public, so they tell people nowadays to get amps that are more powerful than the speakers are rated at, and just be careful to not overdrive the speakers. Needless to say, I'd always blow the tweeters out. When I was a teenager, I had a pair of speakers that were rated at 200 watts per channel that I drove with a very unclean 100 watts RMS receiver.I drove those unclean watts into even worse unclean watts by clipping the **** out of it to get "more volume".of course it was maxed out 3 dB below full power, basically giving the speakers a 100 watt square wave. The danger only really happens when the amp is clipping at close to the max continuous volume.
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